Archive for August, 2009

Global Positioning System (GPS)

Author: boater, 08 17th, 2009

The Global P180px-gps_satellite_nasa_art-iif.jpgositioning System (GPS) is a global navigation satellite system (GNSS) developed by the United States Department of Defense and managed by the United States Air Force 50th Space Wing. It is the only fully functional GNSS in the world. It can be used freely by anyone, unless the system is technically restricted. These restrictions can be applied to specific regions by the U.S. Department of Defense. GPS can be used almost anywhere near the earth, and is often used by civilians for navigation purposes. An unobstructed line of sight to four satellites is required for non-degraded performance. GPS horizontal position fixes are typically accurate to about 15 meters (50 ft). GPS uses a constellation of between 24 and 32 medium Earth orbit satellites that transmit precise radiowave signals, which allow GPS receivers to determine their current location, the time, and their velocity. Its official name is NAVSTAR GPS.

Since it became fully operational on April 27, 1995, GPS has become a widely used aid to navigation worldwide, and a useful tool for map-making, land surveying, commerce, scientific uses, tracking and surveillance, and hobbies such as geocaching. Also, the precise time reference is used in many applications including the scientific study of earthquakes and as a required time synchronization method for cellular network protocols such as the IS-95 standard for CDMA.  This gives us the ability to have a large variety of handheld GPS products.




Water Tubes

Author: boater, 08 14th, 2009

Tubes for uthumbnail2.pngse as towables on water are generally not true inner tubes but rather specially designed tubes for the purpose of recreation. These tubes are often fairly durable and come in either donut or disk shapes. A sleeve of synthetic fabric often covers the tube to prevent it from becoming elongated during towing. Such sleeves commonly have handles for the rider to grasp and an anchoring point for the tow line to be attached at.

Towing water tubes  also requires a powered watercraft such a motorboat or personal watercraft as well as rope to tether the tubes to such craft.

Tubes used for free-floating tubing have traditionally been true inner tubes, but commercially-sold tubes for the same purpose are becoming common place. These tubes are almost always donut-shaped to allow the rider to sit comfortably on their back across the top of the tube with buttocks in the center. This kind of tube rarely has handles or a sleeve and would perform poorly as a towable.




Inflatable Toys

Author: boater, 08 13th, 2009

As I set on my deck on Lake Havasu, Arizona and watch the boats pulling inflatable toys and everyone having a great time I wonder why everyone does not have and inflatable towable to for everyone to have fun on.  Their is such a large variety of inflatables for you and friends and family and a lot of them are made by SportsStuff.thumbnail1.png




Boat Propellers

Author: boater, 08 11th, 2009

For long engin35452.gife life and best overall performance you need exactly the right propeller. But no single propeller is right all the time. If you change the way you use your boats and boat engines, you may have to change the propeller, too. The wrong propeller will not only affect performance, but can destroy your engine in double quick time.

If you bought your engine and boat as a combined package, your dealer will have matched the propeller as part of the pre-delivery rigging procedure. Be sure to verify this with the dealer. But things may change while you own the boat. The dealer will have selected a propeller based on the average load for your boat. But you may be adding heavy items that will alter this important criterion for propeller selection.

Outboard-powered houseboats and pontoon boats are prime examples of craft liable to accumulate heavy gear. Perhaps you’ve just started to tow water-skiers. Perhaps you originally used your engine as auxiliary propulsion for a small sailboat, and are now using it as the primary propulsion for a lightweight skiff. Or maybe you’ve taken to visiting mountain lakes. Extreme changes in altitude can affect the engine’s operating range. If your engine was propped for sea level, operation on a high-altitude lake may require a different propeller to keep the engine revving within its normal range. In fact, all these changes will require re-propping.

The goal of the engine rigger is to ensure that your engine reaches a specified number of revolutions per minute (rpm) at full throttle under the normal circumstances of use for your boat. No more, no less. Typically, this top engine speed falls into a range with a tolerance of 800 to 1,000 rpm. The range is always listed in the workshop manual for your engine, and is generally listed in the owner’s manual as well.

Before continuing with any explanation of propeller theory, let’s define some basic propeller terms.

Boat Propellers Terminology

Pitch. This specification states the theoretical distance in inches that the propeller moves forward or backward in one complete revolution. Think of the propeller as a screw, turning its way into the water.

Diameter. This is the straight-line distance from the center point of the hub to the most distant tip of any of the propeller’s blades, times two.

Cupping. This term describes the “curl” at the trailing edge of a propeller blade. Cupping is used by engineers to increase the blade’s theoretical pitch, giving it a better grip on the water.

Slip. This is related to pitch. The theoretical distance a propeller will move through the water in one revolution (pitch) is affected by the fact that the propeller will actually lose some distance due to slippage through the water. Typically, a standard propeller will have anywhere from 10 percent to 30 percent slip, depending upon its design and use.

Blade thickness. The design of the propeller and the material used determine the thickness of the blades. Ideally, blades are designed as thin as possible to reduce drag. But they also need thickness for strength.

Cavitation. There are many causes of cavitation, including excess loads on the propeller that create vapor bubbles on the blade surface. The effect is to make the propeller lose its grip on the water and revolve at excessive speeds. Cavitation can be caused by some underwater disturbance in front of the propeller, something as simple as a barnacle on your engine’s lower gearcase, or a depth-sounder transducer mounted near the centerline of the boat. Nicks on the leading edge of the propeller blades can also cause this condition. Cavitation can cause extreme damage to the propeller blades, deep pitting, and ultimately, loss of the blade itself.

Ventilation. This is a condition similar to cavitation, but usually involves air drawn down from the surface. Sometimes this comes about through too much “out” trim of the engine, or having the engine mounted too high on the transom. Sometimes exhaust gases are drawn into the area of the blades. Your lower unit has a ventilation plate to prevent air from being sucked down into the propeller from the surface.

Rake. This is the aft-leaning angle between the propeller hub and the blade. High rake angles are used on performance boats to overcome an increased tendency toward ventilation and cavitation.
In addition to the basic definitions, you’ll need to know several other key facts to work your way through the basic propeller selection process.

The method used by manufacturers for basic propeller identification (in addition to the model number of the prop) is to give first the diameter and then the pitch of the prop in inches. They’re usually stamped on the propeller hub. For example, a prop stamped “14 x 17″ has a diameter of 14 inches and a pitch of 17 inches. Any additional markings will be special to the manufacturer, identifying the propeller model and general type.

As for the specific type of propeller to use for your application, you will need to get a copy of your engine maker’s accessories catalog (available free at all dealers) and look at the propeller-recommendation list. It’s set up for specific horsepower and type of use, as well as boat weight or type. Simply find your boat’s category, (pontoon boat, ski boat, runabout, etc.) and the horsepower for your engine, and you will be close to finding the right prop for your boat.

To determine the exact diameter and pitch that’s best for you, study the specification chart more closely. Diameter, for example, will be determined by the approximate normal speed for your boat, and generally the manufacturer will list several possibilities based on this specification.

To determine the exactly correct pitch, you will need to do some testing on the water. I must point out that the only way to perform this test accurately is with a tachometer. If your boat doesn’t have one, you will have to let the dealer set this up for you with his shop instrument.

Here’s the test sequence:

1. Consult your owner’s manual to establish the specified range of revolutions per minute (rpm) your engine is designed to reach at full throttle. This is sometimes referred to as wide-open throttle, or WOT.
2. Using your existing propeller, establish a “benchmark” by making several test runs in fairly calm water. Adjust your engine’s trim angle to achieve maximum speed. Record your maximum engine rpm, and the speed achieved if you have a speedometer.
3. If the full-throttle rpm exceeds the recommended range, you need more pitch. Install the manufacturer’s next-larger-pitch propeller and retest. On average, changing the propeller pitch by one inch will change engine speed by approximately 250 rpm. That is, engine speed will increase by 250 rpm if you decrease the pitch one inch, and decrease by 250 rpm if you increase the pitch by one inch.
4. If the full throttle rpm is below the recommended tolerance, install the next-lower-pitch propeller available and retest.

You will have achieved the optimum adjustment when you can just get the maximum rpm specified for your engine with the boat loaded as it normally would be. This should also give you the best speed.

For installations on non-planing craft, such as heavy workboats and auxiliary sailboats, rpm is the most critical of the specifications in this evaluation process. If the boat is not reaching hull speed, too coarse a pitch may be preventing your motor from developing its maximum rpm, and therefore full horsepower.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Routledge




Dry Pac Storage

Author: boater, 08 10th, 2009

Have you evethumbnail.pngr had your electronics get wet and go and try and get a new cell phone and find out your insurance does not cover it and you had  to pay full price for a new phone well the answer is dry pack storage it will keep all your products dry under the worst conditions.  Dry pack storage is a must for all boaters and water enjoining people so make sure in your  marine accessories bag make sure you have dry pack storage.




Humminbird Fishfinder

Author: boater, 08 07th, 2009

The Hum15570sm.gifminbird Fishfinder 565 offers many great, high quality features that are essential for finding a load of fish every time that you head out onto the lake, river, or even the ocean! Any fisherman who is serious about finding the best fish needs to have a fishfinder like this one. Simply consider the features that it offers. Let’s take a look at them.

The Fishfinder 565 has a high definition, 240V by 240H five inch screen. Sounds great, but what does it actually do? This high definition screen allows for a very good picture. In fact, the grayscale is very precise and you will not miss the color. It is a big screen so you get a good sized picture for easy viewing. But, what does the 565 put on this screen? The 20 degree single beam sonar is optimized for coverage and precision bottom detail. With this amount of sonar, you can see very clearly what is lurking below whether it be a structure or the fish you are searching for. And, you don’t just see directly below your boat but in the area next to it as well. This gives you the best opportunities to see the fish you want.

Other features offered by the 565 include Sonar Echo Enhancement so sensitive that it will see your jig up to 40 feet away which allows you to watch the fish become lured towards it! Imagine seeing the fish latch on to it! It also allows for separate targets within 2  inches of precision.




Protect Your Boat

Author: WaterBlogged, 08 06th, 2009

boat fendersYour boat is your baby – protect it just like you would protect a newborn! While launching and docking your boat, it’s susceptible to impact damage from hitting the dock. You can prevent this with some simple, convenient and invaluable accessories: boat fenders, which are also called boat bumpers. They are one of those safety measures that you want to have installed before you need them!

You’ll want to find boat fenders that can withstand salt water, waves, sand, sun and other elements to give your boat maximum protection. Make sure your fenders are made from marine-grade, UV-resistant vinyl to provide the most effective impact protection and last longer. Inflatable fenders can easily be deflated and stored in your boat when it’s not in use so you never forget them. Don’t cut corners in purchasing these invaluable accessories; invest in high-quality boat fenders now and save on costly repairs later!




Legacy Propellers

Author: boater, 08 06th, 2009

Using proplegacy.pngthe same High Performance Stainless Steel blade patterns as our aluminum Hustler series, Legacy propellers incorporate a square hub design that is compatible with our MasterTORQUE Hub System as well as Michigan Wheel®s XHS® and Mercury®s Flo Torq® hubs.

Now you can upgrade your propeller to a Legacy and not have to purchase a new hub!

With Legacy, you can expect faster top end speeds, quicker hole shot, great lift, and secure handling even on tight WOT turns. The best overall running aluminum propeller available! We’ve fine tuned our designs to maximize the total performance of your boat. Legacy propellers are the best in aluminum propellers and has the same performance as steel propellers.




Fishing Vest

Author: boater, 08 05th, 2009

Having th0321-1807g.jpge proper safety equipment is always the key to a successful day out on the water. There are several different levels of gear, but always a basic that you should always have.

If you have ever fell out of a boat or just fell in the water and realize that your feet don’t touch the bottom, but you are still floating chances are your life has just been saved by a life Jacket or better said, a PFD (personal floatation device). A life jacket is the most basic of all equipment, yet the most important. You should never even sit on a kayak in the water without one. There are many different types of life jackets so it’s important that you have the correct jacket for the correct activity. Not only should you have the correct type, but you should also make sure that it fits you properly.

There are five different types of jackets type I, II, III, VI and V. The lower the number, the better the life jacket is. Type I is considered to be an off shore jacket. This one would be used by workers who are working in very rough water where rescue may take some time type 1 also can turn most unconscious people over so that even though you are unconscious you won’t be floating face down into the water, which obviously would hinder breathing. The disadvantage of these types of jackets is they are big and bulky. This is not the type for jacket to be used for an activity where lots of movement is required such as kayaking.

Type II is a jacket, still a little bulky and meant for a swimmer that is expected to get a fast rescue. This jacket will turn most people over in the water so that they will be facing face up in the water; again, a very important feature for an unconscious person to use.

Type III jacket I would estimate is the most popular type. This is the type you would see a skier wearing or for general inland boating. You would want to try on this jacket before using to make sure it floats you. It comes in a variety of style but basically it is a vest type of style. This type of jacket is meant to be used if you expect a fast rescue. It will not turn an unconscious person face up in the water.

Mixed in with type II jackets are inflatable. These are jackets that can manually inflate or automatic activated by water for example. They are nice if you need a lot of movement. If you have ever seen a sailboat race they use them a lot. They are also nice for fishing out on the lake. Another good use for them is snorkeling although I don’t suggest using the one that automatically inflates when it touches water.  Their are brands such as Colman, Mustang and many others and in these other brands are fishing vest and if you have ever been on a bass boat you know why you need a fishing vest not just a regular mustang life jacket.

Make sure you read the care labels and you maintain your jackets properly. If they become damaged or worn out make sure you replace them. Life jackets are cheep insurance. Once you fall into a lake and get that feeling that you can’t touch bottom you will thank yourself for putting on that life jacket.

If you would like more information about life jackets the best place to look is any website that uses Coast Guard information. They will provide you with the best information to choose the jacket best for you

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tim_Radtke




Flexible Solar Panel

Author: boater, 08 04th, 2009

A flexiblf-solaroll9_large_11543.jpge solar panel is ideal for powering phone, video or digital cameras or many other small electronic devices.  Panel is made of amorphous film coated in Tefzel to make it very flexible which make it easy to recharge items on the go.  Flexible solar panel are easy to carry because they roll up and can be packed just about anywhere and most flexible solar panels are about 9 watts.